Copyright 2005 -- Rachel Saunders

Angkor Thom & Ta Prohm



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May 5, 2005:
Being concerned about starting with the "big one" at Angkor Wat, Josh, Cristel and I woke up at 5am and piled into the car and headed off to the site of temples galore... Angkor Thom. We started with a post sunrise tour of Bayon, the temple within the city of Angkor Thom. The structure was built in the 12th century and made of sandstone and volcanic rock. An amazing feat of construction, the entire structure was built without the assistance of mortar. Just perfectly carved rocks that fit together like pieces of a puzzle. As you clambor up the steep rocky steps to the high lotus shaped towers with the smiling faces of Cambodia's ancestors decorating all four side of the tower tops, you get a real sense of historical significance.

Journal Continued:
During the angkorian period, the kings shifted back and forth from Hinduism to Buddhism. Consequently, you have an ongoing struggle between construction, statues, and deities. Some of the Buddhist statues have been decapitated, Hindu states were smudged away, bas-reliefs were altered. But for the most part, the shape and intent of the buildings were maintained over time and then protected by history and the encroaching jungle. Within the Bayon there are several levels of Bas-reliefs that depict Cambodian life, the activities of the king, and the histories of battle. Within these 1.2km of bas-relief there are nearly thousands detailed scenes which show soldiers marching off to war, farmers bringing in the harvest, struggles with a hunt, dangers of the jungle (crocodiles and tigers), monkeys stealing food from homes, so on and so forth.
Journal Continued:
Nearby, also within Angkor Thom, we saw two other structures. The terrace of elephants and the terrace of the leper king. The terrace of elephants was so named as the entire structure has a series of bas-relief elephants parading around the circumference. They also have elephants at the corners, their trunks creating graceful columns to support the platform. From this platform long ago, Angkor's kings would hold its public ceremonies.

Journal Continued:
The Terrace of the leper king was so named because of the statue atop the terrace was so covered with lichen that western archaeologists thought it looked as though it has leprosy. The front of this terrace is a wall of carefully carved dancing girl figures (apsara) with their fancy hats and contortionist dance movements. In another section, that was early on closed off from erosion from further construction, has a series of bas-relief that depict seated apsara and snakes and gods some with pretty unhappy expressions.

 

 
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Left: The heads of the gods who were busy "churning the milk" outside the gates of Angkor Thom. A myth about the Gods and the Demons battling for immortality.
Journal Continued:
Ta Prohm, a temple of towers, small courtyards and narrow corridors is now clogged with piled stones from the former roof. Bas-relief stones, dislodged by the massive roots are carpeted with lichen and moss, and yet still convey the story of the dedication and determination of the people that built these monuments.
Left: Josh and Rachel in the moto-taxi (put put as they are also called) heading out for a bite to eat before the afternoon adventure.
ce to grow up...
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds.
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Right: Bayon at Angkor Thom. Having arrived very early in the morning in order to avoid the heat of the afternoon sun, we also avoided people. We had the rare experience of checking out Bayon in complete silence. Nice!
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Journal Continued:
Trees, hundreds of years old, create a canopy of shade... much needed in the heat of the cambodian afternoon,... but also creates a perfect slightly eerie setting for any adventure flic... (TombRaider was filmed at Ta Prohm... a stellar adventure film with Angelina Jolie -- I JEST). 
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Right: Terrace of the Elephants . From this platform, the kings would greet their populace.
Right: Monks day out. A closeup of a baby monkey who resides full time on the verdant grounds of Akbar's tomb. Not a bad place to grow up...


:  
Left: Terrace of the Elephants , it is the monks day out. The beautiful orange robes fluttered gracefully as these young... mostly teenagers... monks visited the temples of the ancients.
Left: Terrace of the Leper Kings
 Left: Terrace of the Leper Kings. See the Apsara sitting?
Right: Ta Keo- making my way up the very steep stairs to the top. Don't fall, it is a long way down.
:  
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds.
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Journal Continued:
Nearby, we ventured into the massive unfinished Ta Keo temple to Shiva. Started in the late 900's ... it was never completed because of the death of the King Jayavarman the 5th. The structure is entirely of sandstone, and its immense towers overlook the amazing jungle beyond. It is one of the first temples with the five tower arrangement in the shape of the five of a piece of dice. (die is singular?)
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
:  
Left: Ta Prohm where the jungle and civilization collide.
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Right: A closeup of a baby monkey who resides full time on the verdant grounds of Akbar's tomb. Not a bad place to grow up...

Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
:  
Left: Ta Prohm's grounds keeper and his family. The grounds keeper is famous, having his photograph on the cover of Lonely Planet.
Left: Contemplating life no doubt, two gentlemen sit outside of the tomb amongst the pleasant grounds. :
Left: Cristel and Rachel, peaking out from between the tentacles of the typical foliage of Ta Prohm.
Right: Performers doing a dance that was recreated based on the memories of few old ladies and the pictures from Angkor Wat.

:  
Journal Continued:
At the end of the day, we were exhausted... we had just enough energy to eat while watching the traditional cambodian dances... which were redeveloped by studying the shapes of the dancing ladies in the temples. Then, with the prospect of a 4:30am wakeup to watch the sunrise... we all went to sleep.
Right: A closeup of a baby monkey who resides full time on the verdant grounds of Akbar's tomb. Not a bad place to grow up...

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