Copyright 2005 -- Rachel Saunders

Outside Udaipur


November 18, 2004:
Apart from shopping a little here and there, I have been a busy tourist. My second day in Udaipur, I had the driver and guide take me to Eklingi, Nagda, and Ranakpur. Ranakpur was not on the original itinerary, but I am so glad that I added it. Ranakpur, the Jain temple near Udaipur, was probably the most amazing temple I have seen yet.

--> Previous
--> Next
--> Home
--> More Adventures
--> India Index

Above: A woman on her way to do some washing.

Left: A guru sits atop the stone staircase, waiting for the next apprentice I guess.

Right: Washing in the lake. Women from the village came here to do their washing and water their... goats.

 

Journal continued:
I loved Ranakpur. It was so amazing walking amongst the hundreds of uniquely carved columns of marble, under the ornamental domes, over the beautiful and cool marble floor. I even made a wish under the om tree dome. I actually made many wishes as my guide said that I could ask for anything that I wanted.

Journal Continued:
So I did... it took me a few minutes to think through everything I wanted. Then I gave the god statue a bunch of marigolds. Cus, I hear that is payment for all that I ask for. I hope he coughs up with the goods, cus that would be great.

Before Ranakpur, I went to Eklingi, where the group of shiva temples were. When I arrived, it was closed... I arrived early, I guess. It was a great thing that it was closed, because my guide and I went for a walk around the town and found that behind the main temple is a lake surrounded by even older temples and bathing spots. I enjoyed taking photos there because it had that abandoned wild air about the place. As if nature was finally succeeding in taking over the place. Women were coming with their goats and washing to do some cleaning. After they would wash a full batch of laundry, they would unwrap their saris and give themselves a wash. The water itself wasn't so clean, so I don't know how clean they were ever gonna get.

 

Journal Continued:
Near the lake, there was a very old holy man who wanted to show me a picture of an American woman that he had. He pulled out a very worn photo album and showed me the photo of a young white woman. Evidently she had chosen him for her guru and studied with him for a while. He was very proud to have been the guru of an American. The other few items in that album were images of gods, and important papers. Sometimes you encounter such sweet moments like that.

 

Above: A woman in the midst of her weekly washing.

Right: The kids in the village headed for the lake with their goats.

 

Left: A small temple near the lake

Right: The sas-bahu temple about 30 minutes outside of Udaipur.

Right: Part of the Sas-Bahu temple are a set of columns which have sculptures of erotic kama sutra poses.

Journal Continued:
Anyway, I went to the temples after the bathing scene. The temple there was very impressive as well, although I am glad that I saw it before Ranakpur and not after. It would have faded in comparison if it had been the other way around. As it was, I was very impressed by all the different alters for shiva and ganesh. I still don't have all the details down of the gods and their partners and everything. I do like how they are more than happy to add in new gods all the time as incarnations of some other god. It is a very welcoming religion. It seems the more the merrier. Although, apart from Ganesh, you don't see too many animal gods.. and ganesh is only half. Of course, they do have the cow, but I didn't think that the cow was a god, just holy. Anyway, it is all very intriguing, like an extended family that you are trying to understand who is related to whom.

Left: Jain temple at Ranakpur. Hundreds of completely unique columns. Each column is different from all other 1443 other columns.
Right: A temple just outside of the larger ranakpur temple.
Left: The jain temple has a magical air with rays of light that spill in amongst the columns. Jain priests walked along in the shadows, and sunlight.
Right: Another beautiful view within the Jain temple at Ranakpur.

Left: Ranakpur, on the inside.

Journal Continued:
Nagda, also an amazing place alone, was interesting mainly for the way that it just sits amongst the fields of farmers. Of course, there was a great deal of ornamental carving, some telling the stories of the kama sutra. There was a series of positions along the exterior. Id love to see that at the church of the assemblies of god. Perhaps I should bring a copy and give it to Ashcroft as a present.

Right: Ranakpur... the jain gods have their own vehicles. I can't remember which this one is-- but the vehicle faces the statue of the god... waiting patiently for the god to wake up and take a ride.

 

--> Previous
--> Next
--> Home
--> More Adventures
--> India Index